Azores: Volcanic Islands, Lagoons & Thermal Baths
Crater lakes, natural hot springs, and dramatic volcanic landscapes in the middle of the Atlantic
About João
Azorean-born geologist and outdoor guide who has explored every one of the nine islands over the past decade. João specializes in volcanic landscapes, whale migration patterns, and sustainable island tourism. After leaving São Miguel for university in Lisbon, he returned to help preserve the islands\' natural beauty while sharing their secrets with thoughtful travelers. Fluent in Portuguese, English, and the unique Azorean dialect that makes mainlanders smile.
The Azores are what happens when volcanoes meet the Atlantic Ocean 1,500 km from mainland Europe: nine emerald islands with crater lakes that change color with the weather, villages built on ancient lava flows, and hot springs bubbling up in the most unexpected places. This isn\'t Madeira\'s subtropical gardens or mainland Portugal\'s historic cities—it\'s raw, dramatic nature with just enough Portuguese charm to keep it civilized.
Most tourists hit São Miguel\'s Sete Cidades and Furnas, then wonder what to do next. That\'s a mistake. The Azores archipelago offers Europe\'s best whale watching, otherworldly volcanic landscapes, and hiking that rivals Iceland—all without the crowds or the prices. Each island has its own character, from Pico\'s UNESCO-listed vineyards to São Jorge\'s dramatic coastal fajãs.
After growing up on São Miguel and spending the last decade exploring every island, I\'ve learned which crater lakes are worth the drive, when to see sperm whales, and where to find thermal pools that tourists haven\'t discovered. This guide shares those secrets—the Azores beyond the Instagram posts.
Best Times to Visit the Azores
Ideal Seasons
- • May-June: Peak whale season, wildflowers, warm temperatures (18-22°C)
- • September-October: Fewer tourists, still warm seas, reliable weather
- • April: Hydrangeas start blooming, affordable accommodations
- • July-August: Warmest (23-26°C) but crowded & expensive
Times to Avoid
- • November-March: Rainy season, rough seas, many tours canceled
- • January-February: Coldest months, limited inter-island ferries
- • Peak August: Prices spike 40%, accommodations book out
- • Hurricane season edges: September storms possible
🏝️ São Miguel: The Main Island
Sete Cidades: The Twin Lagoons
The postcard image of the Azores: two crater lakes (one green, one blue) separated by a volcanic ridge. Legend says a green-eyed princess and blue-eyed shepherd cried these lakes into existence when forced apart. Reality: volcanic collapse and minerals create the color difference. Either way, it\'s stunning—especially when clouds roll through the crater.
Half-Day Micro-Itinerary
- 9:00am: Vista do Rei viewpoint for classic photo (arrive early to beat tour buses)
- 9:30am: Drive crater rim road (stop at multiple viewpoints—each offers different perspective)
- 10:30am: Descend to Sete Cidades village, walk lakeside path
- 11:30am: Kayak rental on green lagoon (€15/hour, stunning from water level)
- 1:00pm: Lunch at Lagoa Azul restaurant (try cozido das Furnas if available)
20 km west of Ponta Delgada, car essential
Free (parking €2 at main viewpoint)
Go on cloudy day—mist adds drama!
Furnas: Thermal Wonderland
Furnas is where the Azores\' volcanic heart beats loudest. Steam vents hiss, sulfur-scented fumaroles bubble, and locals cook traditional cozido stew in underground volcanic ovens for 6 hours. The valley has Europe\'s highest concentration of hot springs—from elegant thermal gardens to wild riverside pools where locals soak for free.
Full-Day Micro-Itinerary
- 9:00am: Visit Furnas Lake fumaroles—watch cozido pots being buried (free viewing area)
- 10:00am: Hike around Furnas Lake (1-hour easy loop, beautiful calderas)
- 11:30am: Tea and bolo lêvedo at Parque Terra Nostra entrance café
- Noon-3:00pm: Soak at Terra Nostra thermal pool (€8, iron-rich orange water, bring OLD swimsuit—it stains!)
- 3:30pm: Lunch at Tony\'s Restaurant—try the volcanic-cooked cozido (€18pp, reservation essential)
- 5:00pm: Visit town center fumaroles (Caldeiras das Furnas, free)
- 6:00pm: Optional: Poça da Dona Beija thermal baths at night (€6, local favorite)
40 km from Ponta Delgada (45-min drive)
Terra Nostra (historic), Dona Beija (local vibe)
Book cozido lunch by 10am—limited daily portions!
Gorreana & Porto Formoso: Europe\'s Tea
The Azores are the only place in Europe producing tea commercially—two family-run estates on São Miguel\'s northern coast have been growing tea since 1883. Gorreana is larger and more touristy; Porto Formoso is smaller, family-run, and more authentic. Both offer free tastings, tours, and Instagram-worthy rows of tea bushes rolling into Atlantic mist.
Morning Micro-Itinerary
- 9:00am: Porto Formoso tea factory—intimate tour, family stories (free, 20 mins)
- 9:30am: Tea tasting (try green & black varieties, €0 but buy some!)
- 10:00am: Walk through tea fields (short self-guided path)
- 10:45am: Drive 5 mins to Gorreana (larger, historic factory)
- 11:00am: Gorreana tour & tasting (free, more comprehensive)
- Noon: Lunch at nearby Ribeira Grande town (authentic local restaurants)
North coast, 30 km from Ponta Delgada
Both plantations free (tours & tastings)
Porto Formoso less touristy, more personal
🐋 Pico Island: Whales & Wine
Whale Watching & Volcanic Vineyards
Pico is dominated by Portugal\'s highest mountain (2,351m) and surrounded by the world\'s best whale-watching waters. This is where Azorean whalers once hunted sperm whales; now they take tourists to see them instead. The island\'s volcanic vineyards—protected by thousands of black lava-stone walls—produce unique wines and earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004.
Full-Day Micro-Itinerary
- 7:30am: Whale watching tour from Lajes (€60, 3 hours—sperm whales 95% success rate May-Oct)
- 11:00am: Visit Whalers Museum in Lajes (€5, fascinating history)
- Noon: Lunch at Canto do Paço (fresh limpets, local fish, €20pp)
- 2:00pm: Drive through Criação Velha UNESCO vineyards (stop for photos of lava-stone corrals)
- 3:30pm: Wine tasting at Curral Atlantis or Czar cooperatives (€5-10, volcanic white wines)
- 5:00pm: Swim at natural lava pools in Cachorro (free, dramatic basalt formations)
- 7:00pm: Sunset from São Roque harbor watching Pico mountain
30-min ferry from Faial or fly from São Miguel
April-October (peak May-June for sperm whales)
Book whale tour 2-3 days ahead (weather-dependent)
🌊 Other Islands Worth Visiting
⚓Faial: Sailors\' Island
Horta marina is where transatlantic sailors stop to paint the quay walls. Capelinhos volcano erupted in 1957-58, creating a lunar landscape you can walk through—the half-buried lighthouse is surreal.
- • Must-see: Capelinhos volcano interpretation center
- • Activity: Caldeira rim hike (2 hours, stunning crater)
- • Town: Horta marina (Peter Café Sport—sailor legend)
🏔️São Jorge: The Fajãs
Dramatic cliff-edged island famous for fajãs—flat coastal platforms created by landslides or lava flows, accessible only by steep hiking trails. Best cheese in the Azores made here.
- • Top fajã: Fajã dos Cubres (natural lagoon, 40-min hike down)
- • Specialty: São Jorge cheese (try at local cooperatives)
- • Difficulty: Moderate-hard (steep trails, good fitness needed)
🏛️Terceira: The Historic One
Angra do Heroísmo is the Azores\' most beautiful town—UNESCO-listed colonial architecture, cobbled streets, and the best festivals. Algar do Carvão lava tube is mind-blowing.
- • Must-see: Algar do Carvão (walk inside a volcano!)
- • Town: Angra do Heroísmo (UNESCO historic center)
- • Culture: Bullfighting in streets (touradas à corda)
🌺Flores: The Remote Beauty
The westernmost point of Europe. Flores is all waterfalls, crater lakes, and dramatic coastal cliffs. Least visited major island—feels like the Azores 50 years ago.
- • Highlight: Poço da Alagoinha waterfall
- • Best for: Serious hikers and nature photographers
- • Access: Small plane or summer ferry (weather-dependent)
Practical Information
Getting Around the Azores
- • International flights: Boston, Toronto, Lisbon → Ponta Delgada (São Miguel)
- • Inter-island: SATA Azores Airlines (book early, can sell out)
- • Ferries: Summer only, central triangle (Pico-Faial-São Jorge)
- • Car rental essential: Public transport very limited
- • Roads: Good quality but narrow, watch for cows!
- • Multi-island: Plan 3-4 days minimum per island
Budget Expectations
- • Meals at local restaurants: €10-25 per person
- • Coffee: €0.80 • Bolo lêvedo: €0.50 • Beer: €2
- • Whale watching tour: €55-75
- • Thermal baths: €6-10 entry
- • Accommodations: €50-120/night (guesthouses/airbnb)
- • Car rental: €25-40/day (book ahead!)
Weather & What to Pack
- • Weather changes fast: 'Four seasons in one day\' is real
- • Pack layers—morning mist, midday sun, evening chill
- • Rain jacket essential (light showers common)
- • Hiking boots for trails (can be muddy/slippery)
- • OLD dark swimsuit for thermal baths (iron stains!)
- • Sunscreen & hat (deceptive sun at high altitude)
Local Tips & Etiquette
- • Learn basic Portuguese—English limited outside tourist spots
- • Try local specialties: bolo lêvedo, queijadas, lapas (limpets)
- • Respect private property—many viewpoints on farmland
- • Don\'t rush—island time is real here
- • Support local: buy from small producers, eat at family restaurants
- • Sustainable tourism: Azores are fragile—leave no trace
Sample 7-Day Azores Itinerary
Days 1-3: São Miguel
- • Day 1: Sete Cidades crater lakes, coastal viewpoints
- • Day 2: Furnas full day (thermal baths, cozido lunch, fumaroles)
- • Day 3: North coast (tea plantations, Ribeira Grande, coastal hiking)
Days 4-5: Pico Island
- • Day 4: Whale watching morning, UNESCO vineyards afternoon, wine tasting
- • Day 5: Optional Pico mountain climb (4am start, 6-8 hours) OR coastal exploration
Days 6-7: Faial Island
- • Day 6: Capelinhos volcano, Caldeira rim hike, natural pools
- • Day 7: Horta town, marina, Peter Café Sport, fly back from Faial or return to São Miguel