Mergui Archipelago Guide 2025: 800 Islands, Moken Sea Gypsies & Burma\'s Last Frontier

The Mergui Archipelago (Myeik Archipelago in Burmese) is Southeast Asia\'s last untouched frontier—approximately 800 pristine islands scattered across 36,000 square kilometers of the Andaman Sea, where the Moken sea nomads still live in hand-carved kabang boats, where Burma Banks offers \'walls of sharks\' at underwater seamounts unknown until the 1990s, and where Cock\'s Comb Island hides a heart-shaped emerald lagoon accessible only by swimming through an underwater cave.

This archipelago has been closed to outsiders since the late 1940s, only opening to tourists in 1997—making it one of the least-visited island groups on Earth (fewer than 2,000 visitors per year, compared to Thailand\'s Phi Phi Islands with 1+ million). But Myanmar\'s February 2021 military coup has created a complex and dangerous situation: the Tanintharyi Region where Mergui is located now requires special permits, faces ongoing conflict, and carries official \'do not travel\' warnings from most Western governments.

This guide provides COMPLETE information about the Mergui Archipelago—the full truth about 2025 safety risks and travel restrictions, how to visit if you choose to accept the risks (permit requirements, liveaboard options, costs), the Moken sea gypsy culture and their vanishing kabang boat lifestyle, diving Burma Banks and the archipelago\'s 800 islands including Cock\'s Comb Island\'s Emerald Heart lagoon, best time to visit (Oct-May only), and why this might be your last chance to see one of Earth\'s final sea nomad cultures before it disappears forever.

CRITICAL 2025 Update: Myanmar Conflict, Tanintharyi Restrictions & Safety Warnings

Myanmar\'s February 2021 Military Coup & Ongoing Civil War

On February 1, 2021, Myanmar\'s military (Tatmadaw) staged a coup d'état, ousting democratically-elected State Counsellor Aung San Suu Kyi and ending a decade of democratic reforms. What followed was a brutal crackdown on protestors, the formation of armed resistance groups (People\'s Defense Forces), and a civil war that continues as of January 2025. The conflict has killed thousands, displaced millions, and destroyed Myanmar\'s tourism industry.

Key events affecting Mergui Archipelago/Tanintharyi Region:

• October 2023 - Operation 1027: Ethnic armed groups launched coordinated offensives across Myanmar, including Karen National Liberation Army (KNLA) attacks in Karen State that spilled into Mon State and Tanintharyi Region.
• May 2024 - Thayetchaung Township Offensive: Military junta conducted the longest offensive in Tanintharyi Region since the 2021 coup, affecting areas near Mergui Archipelago.
• January 2025 - Tanintharyi Restricted Area: Myanmar government officially designates Tanintharyi Region (excluding only Myeik township and areas south of Tanintharyi township) as restricted, requiring special permits for tourists.

Official Travel Advisories (January 2025)

• Australia (Smartraveller): 'DO NOT TRAVEL to Myanmar' - Level RED (highest warning). Specific warning for Tanintharyi Region due to armed conflict.
• UK Foreign Office: 'Advise against all travel to Tanintharyi Region' (which includes Mergui Archipelago). Border areas subject to sudden closures.
• US State Department: 'Do Not Travel to Myanmar' - Level 4 (highest). Civil unrest, armed conflict, arbitrary enforcement of local laws.
• Canada: 'Avoid all travel to Myanmar.' Tanintharyi Region listed as high-risk area.

Current Reality: Can You Actually Visit Mergui Archipelago in 2025?

YES, but with extreme caution and acceptance of ALL risks. Here\'s the nuanced truth:

What IS possible:

• The Kawthaung-Ranong border crossing with Thailand remains OPEN for foreigners as of January 2025. Longtail boats operate daily (7am-5pm).
• Some liveaboard operators continue Mergui Archipelago tours from Kawthaung, obtaining permits 2-4 weeks in advance through Myanmar Tourism (though success rate has dropped from 95% pre-coup to ~60-70% in 2024-2025).
• The archipelago itself (800 islands far offshore) has seen minimal direct conflict compared to mainland Tanintharyi Region. No reports of tourist incidents on liveaboards 2021-2025.
• Diving conditions remain pristine (almost zero tourism since 2021 = reef recovery, more sharks at Burma Banks).

What are the RISKS:

• Permit denials: Even with 2-4 week advance applications, Myanmar Tourism may deny permits without explanation (increasingly common since October 2023 offensive).
• Sudden border closures: Kawthaung-Ranong border has closed 3 times since 2021 coup (2-7 days each) due to nearby conflict. You could be stranded in Thailand or Myanmar.
• Evacuation difficulties: If conflict reaches Kawthaung or archipelago, evacuation is extremely difficult (nearest hospital/airport 6-10 hours by boat, Thai navy unlikely to assist Myanmar waters).
• Travel insurance won\'t cover: Most policies exclude conflict zones. Medical evacuation could cost US$50,000-200,000 out-of-pocket.
• Arbitrary arrest: Myanmar military has arrested foreigners on vague \'national security\' charges. Low probability but high impact.
• Supporting military regime: Permits, fees, and guide salaries partially fund the junta. Ethical considerations for visiting.

Should You Visit Mergui Archipelago in 2025? Decision Framework

Consider visiting ONLY if ALL of the following apply:

1. You fully understand and accept the risks above (arrest, injury, death, financial loss).
2. You have secured permits via a reputable liveaboard operator 4-6 weeks in advance (not just verbal confirmation—see official permit document).
3. You monitor Myanmar conflict news daily using sources like Myanmar Now, Irrawaddy, Radio Free Asia (situation changes rapidly).
4. You have US$50,000-200,000 available for emergency evacuation/medical costs (or conflict-zone coverage insurance, extremely rare and expensive).
5. You have informed family/embassy of travel plans and have evacuation contingencies.
6. You are comfortable with the ethical implications of funding Myanmar\'s military regime through tourism fees.

You should NOT visit if:

• You have low risk tolerance or would panic in emergency situations.
• You cannot afford sudden trip cancellation (permits denied day before departure has happened).
• You rely on travel insurance to cover emergencies (it won\'t).
• You are uncomfortable supporting an authoritarian military regime.
• You have better alternatives (see below).

Safer Alternatives to Mergui Archipelago in 2025

• Similan Islands, Thailand: 90% as beautiful, world-class diving, completely safe, no permits needed. 2-4 day liveaboards from Khao Lak (US$300-600).
• Surin Islands, Thailand: Just south of Myanmar border, similar pristine reefs, Moken villages you CAN visit safely (Moken Morgan Village on Koh Surin). Accessible via day trips from Khao Lak or overnight stays (Nov-Apr).
• Andaman Islands, India: Similar remote archipelago feel, 572 islands, Jarawa indigenous tribes, requires permits but SAFE permits via Indian government. Havelock/Neil Islands diving excellent.
• Raja Ampat, Indonesia: Arguable even BETTER than Mergui for diving (more biodiversity), completely safe, well-developed liveaboard infrastructure.
• Wait 2-3 years: Myanmar\'s civil war may resolve (or worsen). Monitor situation. Mergui has been pristine for 70 years; it will still be pristine in 2027-2028 if/when Myanmar stabilizes.

My recommendation: Unless you are an extremely experienced adventure traveler who thrives in conflict zones, has accepted all risks, and has no better alternatives, WAIT. The Mergui Archipelago will still be there when Myanmar is safe again. The Moken culture is tragically declining, but you can visit Moken communities safely in Thailand\'s Surin Islands TODAY without funding a military dictatorship or risking your life.

The Moken Sea Gypsies: Earth\'s Last True Sea Nomads

4,000 Years Living on the Ocean

The Moken people (called \'Salon\' by Burmese, 'Mawken\' by Thai, 'Morgan\' by some groups) are an Austronesian ethnic group who have lived almost entirely on the Andaman Sea for 4,000 years. They are among the last true sea nomads on Earth—until the late 20th century, most Moken spent their entire lives on small wooden boats called kabang, rarely stepping on land except during the monsoon season.

The Moken believe 'Every Moken is born, lives and dies on their boat, while the umbilical cord of their children is connected to the ocean.\' For millennia, this was literal truth. Babies were born on kabang boats, children learned to swim before walking, adults spent 8-9 months at sea fishing and foraging, and elders died on the same boats they were born on. Only during the heaviest monsoon rains (May-June, October) would they take temporary refuge on land, building shelters from bamboo, wood, and pandanus leaves that would be abandoned when the rains stopped.

The Kabang Boat: A Floating Home and Sacred Vessel

The kabang is the centerpiece of Moken culture—a hand-built wooden boat 8-12 meters long that serves as kitchen, bedroom, living room, and spiritual vessel. Each kabang takes 4 months to build using traditional methods unchanged for centuries:

1. A single old-growth hardwood log is selected from the forest (trees must be 100+ years old for sufficient size).
2. The log is hollowed out in the forest using axes and adzes, creating the base hull.
3. The hull is hauled to the beach by the entire village (can take days for large kabangs).
4. Hull planks are built up and lashed together using bamboo pegs and rattan rope (NO nails or metal fasteners).
5. The stern is forked (distinctive Moken design).
6. The roof is thatched with dried palm leaves, creating living space underneath.
7. The boat is blessed in a ceremony before its first voyage.

According to anthropologist Jacques Ivanoff, who has studied the Moken for 40+ years, the Moken creation legend says an ancestral island queen named Sibian declared the kabang represents the human body: the front of the boat is the mouth that eats, and the rear is the part that defecates. This anthropomorphization of the kabang reflects how central it is to Moken identity—the boat IS the person.

Inside the kabang: Families of 4-8 people live in the space beneath the thatched roof (about 3x4 meters). There\'s a clay hearth for cooking (fire on a boat!), woven mats for sleeping, fishing nets and spears stored along the sides, and baskets for storing shells, sea cucumbers, and other foraged goods. Children play and sleep on the roof during calm weather. The kabang has no motor—traditionally propelled by oar and sail, though some modern Moken have added small outboard engines.

Moken Culture, Marriage & Traditions

Marriage customs: Moken marry early (17-18 years old). When a man loves a woman, he must ask her parents for permission in the presence of the woman\'s family and the group chief. If approved, a ceremony is held on the boats. Moken marry only once in their lifetime—divorce does not exist. Adultery is the ultimate taboo: anyone caught cheating is exiled from the group forever and forbidden to contact their family. This is considered worse than death, as Moken identity is inseparable from the community.

Subsistence: Moken are master free-divers and foragers. They can hold their breath for 5-13 minutes (some of the longest recorded human breath-holds) and dive to 20-30 meters without equipment to spear fish, collect sea cucumbers, harvest shells, and gather seaweed. Their knowledge of the sea is encyclopedic—they can predict weather by ocean color, navigate by stars and currents, identify hundreds of marine species, and find freshwater seeps on deserted islands. They use simple tools: wooden spears, handwoven nets, wooden goggles (traditional, now replaced by mask/snorkel).

Language: The Moken speak Moken, an Austronesian language unrelated to Burmese or Thai. It has no written form. Most Moken are now bilingual (Moken + Burmese or Thai), but the language is endangered—only ~2,000 speakers remain, and children increasingly speak only Burmese/Thai.

The Moken Festival: A Glimpse of Tradition

The Moken (Sea Gypsy) Festival is held the second week of February each year at Ma-Kyon-Galet village on Lampi Island in the Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago of southern Myanmar. This is the ONLY time Moken culture is publicly displayed for outsiders. The festival features:

• Traditional ritual dances: Performed in kabang boats and on the beach, these dances tell creation stories, honor ancestors, and ask the sea spirits for protection and bountiful fishing.
• Kabang boat races: Villages compete in rowing races, testing the skill of oarsmen and the craftsmanship of boats.
• Offerings to the sea: Ceremonies where food, flowers, and symbolic items are placed in miniature boats and set adrift as offerings to Nang Phaya (the sea goddess).
• Moken crafts market: Woven baskets, shell jewelry, wooden carvings, and other traditional crafts sold to support villagers.

How to attend (if Myanmar is safe): The festival is accessible ONLY via multi-day liveaboard tours that time their trips to arrive at Lampi Island during the 2nd week of February. Operators like Island Safari Burma and Burma Boating include the festival in special February itineraries (book 3-6 months ahead, fills up). You\'ll witness dances, participate in offerings (respectfully), and meet Moken elders who still remember the pure nomadic kabang life before forced settlement.

The Tragic Decline: From 12,000-2,000 in a Decade

Ten years ago, 12,000 Moken roamed the Myeik Archipelago. Today, fewer than 2,000 remain. This 83% decline in a single decade is one of the fastest cultural extinctions in modern history. What happened?

• Forced settlement: Myanmar and Thailand governments pressured Moken to settle on land for taxation, education, border control, and \'integration.\' Living on boats was deemed \'uncivilized.\' Most Moken now live in permanent villages (Ma-Kyon-Galet, Nyaung Wee, Morgan Village in Thailand).
• Illegal status: Many Moken have no birth certificates or citizenship—they are stateless. Myanmar and Thailand both claim Mergui Archipelago, leaving Moken in legal limbo. Without ID, they cannot own land, access healthcare, attend school, or get formal jobs.
• Overfishing & marine park restrictions: Commercial fishing fleets have depleted the fish stocks Moken depend on. Simultaneously, new marine parks ban Moken from traditional fishing grounds (despite living there for 4,000 years). They can\'t fish legally but also can\'t get other work (no ID).
• Cultural erosion: Land settlement destroyed kabang culture. Children go to Burmese/Thai schools, learn to read/write in those languages, forget Moken. Satellite TV, smartphones, and Western goods create desire for cash economy. Traditional knowledge (navigation, free-diving, boat-building) is no longer taught—elders die, skills vanish.
• Resource extraction: Development projects (hotels, ports, industrial fishing) have displaced Moken from ancestral islands. They have no legal claim to land (stateless), so evictions are easy.

What remains: A few dozen kabang boats still operate, crewed by elders in their 60s-80s who refuse to settle on land. These are the LAST true sea nomads. When they die (likely within 10-20 years), the kabang lifestyle dies with them. The younger generation lives in stilted houses on land, works as day laborers or in tourism, and knows Moken culture only through elders\' stories. In 2-3 generations, the Moken will be indistinguishable from land-dwelling Burmese/Thai—the name will remain, but the culture will be extinct.

Human Rights Watch (2015 report 'Stateless at Sea'): 'The Moken face an uncertain future as their population decreases and their nomadic lifestyle and unsettled legal status leave them marginalized by modern property and immigration laws, maritime conservation and development programs, and tightening border policies.'

Visiting the Mergui Archipelago—if safe—offers a chance to witness and support one of Earth\'s last sea nomad cultures before it disappears. But it also raises ethical questions: Does tourism help preserve Moken culture (income, awareness, pride) or accelerate its destruction (commercialization, dependency, cultural performance for outsiders)? There\'s no easy answer.

Cock\'s Comb Island & the Emerald Heart Lagoon

Myanmar\'s Most Photographed Natural Wonder

Cock\'s Comb Island (also called Emerald Heart Island or Cocks Comb) is a small limestone atoll in the northern Mergui Archipelago, famous for a geological marvel: a perfect heart-shaped lagoon hidden inside the island, accessible only by swimming underwater through the rocks. It\'s one of the most photographed natural formations in Myanmar and the highlight of most Mergui liveaboard itineraries.

Geology: Cock\'s Comb is a limestone karst island formed millions of years ago when coral reefs were uplifted by tectonic forces. Over time, rainwater dissolved the limestone, creating a large doline (sinkhole) in the island\'s center. The doline filled with seawater through underwater channels, creating a saltwater lagoon. The lagoon happens to be shaped almost exactly like a heart—likely coincidence, but the Moken believe it\'s a gift from the sea goddess Nang Phaya.

The Underwater Entrance: Swimming Through Rock

The island has NO beach and NO land access—sheer limestone cliffs rise 20-30 meters from the sea on all sides. The ONLY way to reach the lagoon is by swimming/snorkeling underwater through a narrow passage beneath the rocks. Here\'s how it works:

1. Your liveaboard anchors outside the island (no mooring, 15-20m depth).
2. You put on mask, snorkel, and life jacket (mandatory for safety).
3. Dive guides lead you to the entrance point—a gap in the rocks at the waterline.
4. You take a deep breath and swim DOWN 3-5 meters underwater, then THROUGH a narrow tunnel in the rock (about 2 meters wide, 10 meters long). The tunnel is dark (bring underwater flashlight or follow guide\'s light).
5. You swim UP inside the tunnel, emerging into the lagoon.
6. You can now snorkel, swim, and photograph the heart-shaped lagoon surrounded by 30-meter jungle-covered cliffs.

Swimming requirements: You MUST be a confident swimmer and able to hold your breath for 30-60 seconds. The tunnel is not dangerous (wide enough, short, no currents), but claustrophobic individuals or weak swimmers should NOT attempt. Life jackets are mandatory (you remove them inside the lagoon, wear them back out). Guides go first, ensure everyone makes it safely.

Inside the Emerald Heart

Once inside, you\'re in a surreal natural amphitheater. The lagoon is shaped like a heart, about 50x60 meters, surrounded by sheer limestone walls covered in jungle vines and ferns. Sunlight filters through the opening above, creating emerald-green water at midday (hence 'Emerald Heart'), turquoise at dawn/dusk, and dark jade when cloudy. The color changes because of the light angle reflecting off the white limestone bottom.

Marine life: The lagoon is a nursery for juvenile fish—parrotfish, damselfish, groupers, snappers, sometimes small reef sharks (harmless blacktips). Visibility is 20-30 meters. The water is calm (protected from waves), salty (connected to ocean via underwater channels), and warm (28-30°C).

Photography: Bring an underwater camera (GoPro, underwater phone case). The best shots are from inside the lagoon looking up at the heart-shaped opening with sky visible above. Sunrise/sunset light creates dramatic colors. Drone photography is BANNED (Myanmar military restrictions, plus it\'s disrespectful to Moken sacred sites).

How Cock\'s Comb Compares to Thailand\'s Emerald Cave

Cock\'s Comb Island is often compared to Emerald Cave (Morakot Cave) on Koh Mook, Thailand—another limestone island with a hidden lagoon accessed via swimming through a cave. Key differences:

• Crowd factor: Emerald Cave sees 500-1,000 visitors per day in peak season (packed, noisy, life jacket traffic jams in the tunnel). Cock\'s Comb sees 10-20 visitors per day (only accessible via multi-day liveaboards, not day boats). You might have the lagoon entirely to yourself.
• Tunnel difficulty: Emerald Cave tunnel is 80 meters long, pitch black, narrow (can be scary). Cock\'s Comb tunnel is 10 meters, short enough to see light at both ends, wider (easier, less claustrophobic).
• Lagoon size: Emerald Cave lagoon is larger (100x80m) with a beach inside. Cock\'s Comb is smaller (50x60m), no beach, but the heart shape is more dramatic.
• Cost: Emerald Cave day trip from Koh Lanta: ฿1,500 (~US$45). Cock\'s Comb requires multi-day Mergui liveaboard: US$1,500-4,000. But Mergui includes 20+ other pristine islands + diving.

Verdict: If you want the experience easily and safely, do Emerald Cave in Thailand. If you want the experience in near-total solitude at one of Earth\'s least-visited islands (and accept Myanmar travel risks), do Cock\'s Comb.

Burma Banks: The Last Frontier of Shark Diving

Underwater Seamounts Unknown Until the 1990s

Burma Banks is not an island but a series of underwater seamounts (submerged mountains) rising from 300+ meters depth to 15-20 meters below the surface, located 200-250 km offshore in the Andaman Sea. These seamounts were unknown to the outside world until the 1990s—their exact location was a closely guarded secret among a few fishermen and boat captains. Today, Burma Banks (along with nearby Black Rock, Western Rocky, and Shark Cave) is considered one of the world\'s premier shark diving destinations.

Why Burma Banks is special: The seamounts create a \'current magnet\' effect. Nutrient-rich deep water rises along the steep slopes, bringing plankton and small fish, which attract huge schools of predators. The result: some of the highest shark densities in Southeast Asia, with 5-20 sharks visible on every dive—silvertips, grey reefs, whitetips, blacktips, and occasional tiger sharks. Divers describe \'walls of sharks\' circling in the blue, sometimes 50+ sharks in view.

What to Expect: Dive Conditions & Marine Life

Dive profile:

• Depth: 15-40 meters. Most dives are 25-30m on the seamount plateaus, with walls dropping to 300m+ below.
• Current: STRONG (1-3 knots typical, 4+ knots possible). Burma Banks is drift-diving only—you drop, drift along the seamount, and surface downcurrent where the boat picks you up. NOT suitable for beginners.
• Visibility: 20-40 meters (best Jan-Apr). Can drop to 15-20m during plankton blooms (Feb-May), but that\'s when whale sharks appear.
• Water temp: 26-30°C. 3mm wetsuit recommended (multiple dives, current = feels colder).
• Experience required: Advanced Open Water minimum. 50+ logged dives recommended. Must be comfortable with strong current, deep diving, negative entries, drift diving, no mooring lines, blue water (no reef to orient).

Marine life:

• Silvertip sharks (Carcharhinus albimarginatus): The stars of Burma Banks. 5-10 per dive, sometimes 20+. These 2-3 meter sharks with distinctive white-tipped fins patrol the seamount edges. NOT aggressive but curious—they\'ll swim close to investigate divers (thrilling but safe if you stay calm).
• Grey reef sharks, whitetip reef sharks, blacktip reef sharks: Always present, schools of 10-30.
• Tiger sharks (Galeocerdo cuvier): Occasional sightings (5-10% of dives). 3-4 meter predators, more common Apr-May. Keep distance, admire from afar.
• Manta rays (Manta birostris): Feb-May plankton blooms bring mantas. Wingspan 3-5 meters. Often seen at cleaning stations on seamount tops.
• Whale sharks (Rhincodon typus): Feb-May. Not guaranteed, but sightings reported on 20-30% of Burma Banks trips during whale shark season. Usually solo juveniles 4-6 meters.
• Schools: Huge schools of trevally (giant, bigeye, bluefin), barracuda (100+ individuals), fusiliers, snappers. Rainbow runners, tuna, mackerel.
• Coral: Seamount tops covered in hard corals (staghorn, table corals, brain corals), gorgonian sea fans (2-3 meters tall), barrel sponges. Less colorful than shallow reefs but healthy.

Why Divers Call It 'The Last Frontier\'

Burma Banks is often called 'the last frontier of shark diving in Southeast Asia\' for several reasons:

1. Accessibility: 6-10 hours by boat from Kawthaung, ONLY reachable on multi-day liveaboards (7-10 day trips). Day boats can\'t reach it. This remoteness keeps crowds away—you might see one other liveaboard per day, sometimes zero.
2. Shark numbers: While places like Sipadan (Malaysia) and Richelieu Rock (Thailand) have seen shark declines from overfishing, Burma Banks remains pristine. Almost zero commercial fishing since the 1990s (Myanmar navy patrols), plus decades of tourism isolation (closed pre-1997, then 2021 coup stopped tourism again) = shark populations are INCREASING.
3. Unexplored: Only a handful of the seamounts have been dived and named (Burma Banks, Black Rock, Western Rocky, Shark Cave). There are dozens more seamounts on nautical charts that have NEVER been dived—literally unexplored dive sites in the 21st century.
4. Adventure factor: Strong currents, deep dives, big animals, remote location, no safety/rescue infrastructure = this is expedition diving, not resort diving. Appeals to advanced divers seeking adrenaline and pristine conditions.

How to Dive Burma Banks: Logistics & Costs

Burma Banks is ONLY accessible on 7-10 day Mergui Archipelago liveaboards (you cannot dive Burma Banks on shorter 3-5 day trips—too far). Typical itinerary:

• Day 1: Board liveaboard in Kawthaung, overnight sail north to Mergui Archipelago.
• Day 2-3: Dive northern Mergui islands (warm-up dives, shallower reefs, macro).
• Day 4-5: Overnight sail to Burma Banks (6-10 hours), arrive dawn. 3-4 dives per day at Burma Banks seamounts. Sleep on boat anchored at Banks.
• Day 6-7: More Burma Banks dives (different seamounts), or sail to Black Rock/Western Rocky (nearby shark sites).
• Day 8-9: Dive southern Mergui islands on return journey (Cock\'s Comb Island, Moken villages).
• Day 10: Return Kawthaung, disembark.

Liveaboard costs (10-day Burma Banks trips):

• Budget: US$2,500-3,000 (Phinisi wooden boats, shared bathrooms, basic food). Operators: Smiling Seahorse, some Phinisi charters.
• Mid-range: US$3,500-4,500 (modern boats, private bathrooms, air-con, better food, Nitrox). Operators: Master Liveaboards, Deep Andaman Queen.
• Luxury: US$5,000-7,000 (spacious cabins, gourmet food, small groups 8-12 divers, premium service). Operators: Burma Boating private charters.

Additional costs: Myanmar fees US$250-290, gear rental US$170 (10 days x $17/day), Nitrox US$50-100, tips US$300-500. Total for mid-range 10-day Burma Banks trip: US$4,500-5,500.

Best time for Burma Banks: December-April (calm seas, best visibility, most sharks). Feb-May adds whale sharks/mantas but reduces visibility to 15-25m. Avoid Oct-Nov (season start, rougher seas, longer sail times), May-Oct (monsoon, trips don\'t operate).

The 800 Islands: What Else to See in Mergui Archipelago

Island Highlights Beyond Cock\'s Comb & Burma Banks

The Mergui Archipelago contains approximately 800 islands scattered across 36,000 sq km. Most are uninhabited limestone karsts, volcanic islands, or coral atolls. Here are the must-visit islands on liveaboard itineraries:

Lampi Island (Ma-Kyon-Galet Village):

• Largest island in Mergui, home to Ma-Kyon-Galet Moken village (100+ families).
• Site of annual Moken Festival (2nd week February)—traditional dances, kabang races, sea goddess offerings.
• Mangrove forests, freshwater streams, jungle hiking trails (2-4 hours to cross island).
• Visit Moken village with local guide (₹200k/US$15 donation to village school recommended). See kabang boats being built, watch elders weave nets, learn about free-diving techniques.

Horseshoe Island:

• Perfectly horseshoe-shaped bay with white sand beach.
• Excellent snorkeling inside the bay (shallow coral gardens, 5-15m depth, sea turtles, reef sharks).
• Popular anchorage for liveaboards (calm, protected, beautiful sunsets).
• Beach BBQs often held here (liveaboard crew grills fresh fish on the beach, guests swim/snorkel until sunset).

St. Matthews Island (Aye Island):

• Limestone island with hidden lagoons and sea caves accessible by kayak.
• Rock climbing routes on sea cliffs (5.8-5.11 grade, bolted routes, 20-40m). Some liveaboards carry climbing gear.
• Swiftlet bird nests in caves (edible bird\'s nest, expensive delicacy—harvesting restricted to locals).

Boulder Island:

• Named for giant granite boulders scattered across the island (unusual in limestone archipelago).
• Dive/snorkel sites around boulders underwater (swim-throughs, arches, canyons created by boulders).
• Resident hawksbill turtle at the west side (90% sighting rate—nicknamed \'Hank\' by dive guides).

North Twin Island:

• Two identical islands separated by 50m channel (hence 'North Twin' and 'South Twin').
• Channel dive: drift through the passage between islands, current brings nutrients, attracts huge schools of fish (snappers, jacks, barracuda), reef sharks patrol the channel. 15-25m depth.
• Beach camping allowed (some liveaboards offer 1 night beach camping on North Twin—sleep in tents on beach, campfire, stars, extremely remote experience).

Island 115 (Western Rocky):

• This island doesn\'t have an official name—known by chart number '115' or dive site name 'Western Rocky.\'
• Submerged pinnacle next to the island rising from 40m to 12m. Advanced dive site (current, depth).
• Famous for grey reef shark aggregations (20-40 sharks), Napoleon wrasse (2m long), giant groupers (100+ kg).
• Nearby 'Shark Cave\'—underwater cavern at 25m with 5-10 whitetip reef sharks resting inside (can swim into cave with guide, sharks are docile/sleeping during day).

Paradise Island:

• Small uninhabited island with 360° fringing reef (entire island surrounded by coral).
• Some of the best snorkeling in Mergui: shallow (2-8m), crystal clear (25-30m visibility), huge variety of corals and fish.
• Clownfish city—hundreds of anemones with resident clownfish (Nemo!), plus butterflyfish, angelfish, triggerfish, parrotfish.
• Perfect for non-divers or last-day easy dives.

Diving Summary: What to Expect Underwater

The Mergui Archipelago offers diverse diving:

• Macro: Nudibranchs (50+ species), frogfish, ghost pipefish, pygmy seahorses, blue-ringed octopus (rare, deadly—don\'t touch), mantis shrimp, decorator crabs. Northern islands best for macro.
• Wide angle: Shark aggregations (Burma Banks, Western Rocky, channel dives), manta rays (Feb-May cleaning stations), whale sharks (Feb-May open water), schooling fish (trevally, barracuda, fusiliers).
• Coral health: EXCELLENT. Decades of isolation = almost zero damage from tourism, anchors, or divers. Hard coral coverage 60-80% at most sites (compare to 20-40% in heavily visited areas like Phuket). Bleaching events have occurred (2010, 2016) but reefs recovered quickly.
• Visibility: 15-40m depending on site and season. Best visibility Dec-Apr (25-40m). Plankton blooms Feb-May reduce visibility to 15-25m but bring whale sharks/mantas.
• Water temp: 26-30°C year-round. Early season (Oct-Nov) 26-27°C, late season (Apr-May) 29-30°C. 3mm wetsuit comfortable, 5mm if you get cold easily.

How to Visit Mergui Archipelago: Permits, Access & Logistics (2025 Update)

Step 1: Understand the Permit Requirements

Foreigners CANNOT visit Mergui Archipelago independently—you MUST book through a licensed Myanmar tour operator or liveaboard company who will arrange permits on your behalf. Here\'s what\'s required:

• Application timeline: Permits take 2-4 weeks to process. Some operators report 4-6 weeks since 2021 coup (bureaucracy slower, military approvals needed). Apply 6-8 weeks before your trip to be safe.
• Application process: You provide passport copy + travel dates to your liveaboard operator. They submit to Myanmar Tourism Ministry. You receive a permit document (keep physical copy—immigration will check).
• Who can apply: ONLY registered Myanmar tour companies with registered yachts/boats. Individual applications are rejected. This is why you must book through operators—you literally cannot get a permit yourself.
• Mandatory guide: A Myanmar Tourism official guide MUST be aboard your boat at all times. This guide monitors compliance, restricts access to \'off-limit\' islands (military zones, indigenous protected areas), and ensures you follow rules. You cannot refuse the guide (permit condition). Guide costs are included in liveaboard price.
• Restricted islands: Approximately 50-100 of the 800 islands are off-limits (exact number classified). These include military installations, indigenous Moken villages that refuse contact, and conservation zones. Your guide will tell you which islands you can/cannot visit. Violating this = permit revoked, deportation, possible arrest.

Step 2: Choose Your Access Point

Option A: Kawthaung (Most Common, via Thailand)

• Route: Fly to Phuket or Ranong, Thailand. Cross border at Ranong-Kawthaung by longtail boat (25 min, 100 Baht/US$3). Board liveaboard in Kawthaung harbor.
• Visa: If doing archipelago tour only (NOT entering mainland Myanmar): Buy border crossing permit at Kawthaung immigration (US$10, no Myanmar visa needed). If traveling onward in Myanmar: E-visa OR visa-on-arrival (28 days, available at this border since 2016, check latest regulations).
• Pros: Easiest access (Thailand is easy to reach, Ranong-Kawthaung border well-established, most liveaboards depart Kawthaung).
• Cons: Border occasionally closes due to conflict (monitor news). Thailand entry/exit fees apply.

Option B: Myeik (Mergui City, Domestic Myanmar)

• Route: Fly into Yangon or Mandalay, Myanmar (international flights). Take domestic flight Yangon→Myeik or Mandalay→Myeik (daily, 1.5 hours, US$80-150). Liveaboards depart from Myeik harbor.
• Visa: Myanmar e-visa (apply online 2-4 weeks before, US$50, 28 days) OR visa-on-arrival at Yangon airport (some nationalities, check eligibility).
• Pros: Avoids border crossings. Myeik city has hotels if you want to spend a night before/after liveaboard.
• Cons: More expensive (international flight to Yangon + domestic flight). Myanmar mainland travel carries higher conflict risk than island-only border crossing.

Option C: Day Trips from Kawthaung (No Permit Needed)

• A small group of 30 islands off Dawei coast is NOT part of the restricted Mergui Archipelago area. These can be accessed on day trips from Kawthaung WITHOUT archipelago permits.
• Operators: Island Safari Burma, local Kawthaung tour agencies. Cost: US$50-100/day including boat, snorkel gear, lunch.
• Islands: Mostly unnamed (Island 1, Island 2, etc.), nice snorkeling/beaches but NOT the pristine remoteness of deep Mergui. No Moken villages, no Cock\'s Comb, no Burma Banks.
• Suitable for: Travelers who want a taste of Mergui without commitment/cost of multi-day liveaboards, or those who can\'t get archipelago permits.

Step 3: Book a Liveaboard & Pay Fees

Liveaboard options:

• Budget (US$250-295/day): Phinisi wooden boats, shared bathrooms, fan-cooled cabins, basic Thai/Burmese food, 12-20 guests. Operators: Smiling Seahorse, some Phinisi charters. Diving: 3 dives/day, rental gear included or US$17/day.
• Mid-range (US$350-450/day): Modern steel/fiberglass boats, private bathrooms, air-con, better food (variety, Western options), 10-16 guests, Nitrox available. Operators: Master Liveaboards, Deep Andaman Queen, Miss Moon. Diving: 3-4 dives/day, gear rental US$17/day or bring your own.
• Luxury (US$500-700/day): Spacious cabins (15-20 sqm), gourmet food (chef-prepared, fresh sushi, BBQ), hot showers, sun decks, 6-12 guests (more space), premium service. Operators: Burma Boating (private charters), high-end Phinisi conversions. Diving: 4 dives/day, gear included, Nitrox included.

What\'s included: Accommodation, all meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks), drinking water, tea/coffee, all dives (tanks, weights, weightbelts), English-speaking divemasters/guides, Myanmar permit processing, mandatory government guide.

What\'s NOT included: Myanmar entry/national park fees (US$250-290 CASH, crisp new bills—Myanmar rejects torn/old bills), dive gear rental (US$17/day if you don\'t bring your own), Nitrox (US$5-10/dive, optional), alcohol (bring your own or buy aboard at markup), tips for crew (10-15% of liveaboard cost typical, ~US$200-400 for 7-10 day trip).

Booking timeline:

• Peak season (Jan-Mar): Book 3-4 months ahead (Burma Banks trips fill fast, limited boats).
• Shoulder season (Oct-Nov, Apr-May): Book 1-2 months ahead.
• 2025 Myanmar conflict caveat: Even with booking, permits may be denied 1-2 weeks before departure. Choose operators with flexible cancellation policies (full refund if permit denied). Some operators require 50% deposit only, balance due if permit approved.

Step 4: Prepare Documents & Cash

Required documents:

• Passport (valid 6+ months, 2+ blank pages).
• Passport photos (2x, for visa/permits if needed).
• Permit document (provided by liveaboard operator 1-2 weeks before trip—print physical copy).
• Myanmar e-visa (if applicable, print confirmation).
• Dive certification card (original, not photo—immigration sometimes checks).
• Dive insurance with evacuation coverage (DAN, World Nomads, etc.—print policy document).

Cash requirements (CRITICAL):

• Myanmar fees: US$250-290 in CRISP, NEW, UNDAMAGED US dollar bills (Myanmar immigration REJECTS old, torn, written-on, or folded bills—seriously, they will refuse payment and deny entry).
• Tips: US$200-500 depending on trip length/budget.
• Emergency cash: US$500-1,000 for unexpected costs (extra days if boat delayed, emergency evacuation down payment, border crossing issues).
• Total cash to bring: US$1,000-2,000. Get bills from bank (request \'new, uncirculated\' bills for Myanmar). Keep in waterproof pouch.

Best Time to Visit Mergui Archipelago: Weather, Diving & Marine Life Seasons

Dry Season: Late October - Mid May (ONLY Time to Visit)

Tourism season: The Mergui Archipelago is accessible ONLY from late October to mid-May. Outside this window, monsoon rains, rough seas, and occasional hurricanes make boat travel dangerous, and ALL liveaboard operators suspend trips (no exceptions).

PEAK SEASON: January - March

• Weather: Most beautiful conditions—warm (28-32°C air temp), sunny (8-10 hours sun/day), calm seas (0.5-1m waves), steady winds (10-15 knots, perfect for sailing). Minimal rain (0-2 days rain per month).
• Diving: Best visibility (25-40m), all dive sites accessible (Burma Banks, seamounts, walls), calm currents (easier diving). Water temp 27-29°C.
• Marine life: Sharks present year-round, but Jan-Mar has highest aggregations (10-20 sharks per dive at Burma Banks). Mantas start appearing late Feb-Mar.
• Crowds (relative): Most liveaboards operate Jan-Mar, so you might see 1-2 other boats per day (still very quiet compared to Thailand\'s 10-20 boats per site). Book 3-4 months ahead.
• Costs: Highest prices (peak season surcharges, US$50-100/day more than shoulder season).

SHOULDER SEASON (EARLY): October - November

• Weather: Season just starting—occasional rain (3-5 days/month), choppy seas (1-2m waves, can be uncomfortable for seasickness-prone), variable winds. Air temp 26-30°C.
• Diving: Visibility 20-30m (good but not peak), rougher seas mean some sites inaccessible (Burma Banks trips may be postponed/rerouted if seas too rough). Water temp 26-27°C (coolest of season).
• Marine life: Sharks present but fewer aggregations (they haven\'t gathered yet). Mantas/whale sharks very rare (wrong season).
• Pros: Fewer tourists (maybe 0-1 other boat), cheaper liveaboards (US$50-100/day less), reefs are most pristine (just recovered from monsoon, zero human impact for 5 months).
• Cons: Weather unpredictable, longer boat rides to Burma Banks (rougher seas = slower travel), less comfortable.

SHOULDER SEASON (LATE): March - April

• Weather: Hottest months (32-35°C air temp, 29-30°C water temp), less wind (calm seas, but hot/humid), occasional afternoon thunderstorms (brief, 30-60 min). Mostly sunny.
• Diving: BEST visibility of the entire season (30-40m, crystal clear). Less wind = glass-calm seas, easy diving conditions. Water warmest (30°C—wetsuit optional, but 3mm recommended for multiple dives).
• Marine life: WHALE SHARK & MANTA SEASON PEAK. Feb-May plankton blooms attract whale sharks (sightings on 20-40% of dives at Burma Banks) and manta rays (cleaning stations, 5-10 mantas per dive). Sharks still present (10-15 per dive).
• Tradeoff: Plankton blooms reduce visibility at some sites (15-25m instead of 30-40m), but the plankton is WHY whale sharks/mantas appear. Wide-angle photographers prioritize this season; macro photographers prefer Jan-Feb (clearer water, more nudibranchs).
• Pros: Whale sharks/mantas, best visibility, fewer tourists (season winding down), cheaper (shoulder pricing).
• Cons: Very hot (uncomfortable for some), season ends mid-May (trip could be cut short if early monsoon).

AVOID: May - October (Monsoon Season)

• May-June: Transition to monsoon. Occasional hurricanes/cyclones (rare but possible). Rain increases (10-15 days/month), seas rough (2-4m waves), winds strong (20-30 knots). Liveaboards stop operating by mid-May.
• July-October: Full monsoon. Heavy rain daily (20-25 days/month, 200-400mm/month), rough seas (3-6m waves, dangerous), poor visibility (5-15m), cold water (24-26°C). NO liveaboards operate. Even local fishing boats stay in harbor.
• Why monsoon is dangerous: Storms develop quickly, rescue is nearly impossible (no coast guard in Myanmar waters, Thai navy won\'t enter Myanmar), and the archipelago is 200+ km from land. DO NOT attempt to visit during monsoon.

Suggested Timing Based on Priorities

• Best overall experience: January-February (perfect weather, great visibility, high shark numbers, avoid whale shark crowds).
• Whale sharks & mantas: March-April (plankton blooms, 20-40% whale shark sighting rate, mantas at cleaning stations).
• Budget & solitude: October-November (cheapest, almost zero tourists, pristine reefs, accept rougher seas).
• Best visibility: March-April (30-40m, glass-calm seas, hottest but clearest).
• Shark diving: December-February (highest shark aggregations, 15-20 per dive at Burma Banks).
• Moken Festival: 2nd week of February only (book 4-6 months ahead, special festival itineraries).

What to Pack for Mergui Archipelago Liveaboard

Essential Documents & Money

• Passport (valid 6+ months, 2+ blank pages)
• Passport photos (2x)
• Permit document (print from operator)
• Myanmar e-visa (if applicable, print)
• Dive certification card (ORIGINAL, not photo)
• Dive logbook (proof of experience for advanced sites)
• Dive insurance policy (DAN/World Nomads, print)
• US$1,000-2,000 CASH (crisp, new, undamaged bills for Myanmar fees + tips + emergency)

Dive Gear (If Bringing Your Own)

• Mask (MUST fit well, bring backup), snorkel, fins
• 3mm wetsuit (27-30°C water, or 5mm if you get cold)
• Dive computer (mandatory for Burma Banks multi-level dives)
• SMB/safety sausage (mandatory for drift dives, current can separate you from boat)
• Dive light (useful for crevices, night dives, Cock\'s Comb underwater tunnel)
• Reef hook (for Burma Banks strong current—hook onto dead coral to stay in place while watching sharks)
• Camera + underwater housing (GoPro, mirrorless, compact—bring extra batteries, charging limited)
• If NOT bringing gear: Rentals available (US$17/day full set), but mask/fins highly recommended to bring (rental masks often don\'t fit well)

Clothing & Personal Items

• Lightweight quick-dry clothes (live in swimsuit + t-shirt + shorts for 7-10 days)
• Rash guard (sun protection, easier than reapplying sunscreen 5x/day)
• Light rain jacket (brief showers even in dry season)
• Flip-flops (boat wear, reef shoes for shore landings—Mergui islands have sharp rocks/coral beaches)
• Sun hat, sunglasses
• Modest clothes for Moken village visits (long pants/skirts, covered shoulders—respect Muslim/indigenous customs)
• Warm layer (fleece or light jacket—boats can be cold at night from wind/air-con)

Health & Safety

• Reef-safe sunscreen SPF 50+ (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide, NO oxybenzone/octinoxate—damages coral and banned at some dive sites)
• DEET insect repellent 30-50% (mosquitoes/sandflies on island stops, dengue/malaria risk low but present)
• Seasickness medication (meclizine, scopolamine patches—Oct-Nov can be rough seas, even calm season has 6-10 hour boat rides to Burma Banks)
• Anti-malaria pills (optional but recommended if staying more than 7 days, doxycycline or Malarone—consult travel doctor)
• Basic first aid kit (antibiotic ointment for coral cuts, pain relievers, antihistamines, rehydration salts ORS)
• Prescription medications (bring DOUBLE what you need in case trip extended by weather/permit issues)
• Hand sanitizer, wet wipes (boats have limited freshwater for handwashing)

Electronics & Miscellaneous

• Power bank (10,000-20,000 mAh—charging limited to generator hours, some boats 24hr power but don\'t rely on it)
• Universal adapter (Type C/G/D plugs in Myanmar, boats vary)
• Headlamp/flashlight (night dives, power outages, walking on dark decks)
• Waterproof phone case (for Cock\'s Comb lagoon, kayaking, beach landings)
• Dry bag (10-20L for documents/cash/electronics during tender boat transfers to islands)
• Reusable water bottle (boats provide drinking water refills, reduce plastic)
• Kindle/books (downtime between dives, no internet, long boat rides—bring entertainment)
• Seasickness bands (acupressure wristbands, some people swear by them)
• Mask defog solution (new masks fog badly without treatment)

What NOT to Pack

• Hair dryer (most boats have limited power, low priority)
• Lots of clothes (you\'ll wear same swimsuit/shorts for days, laundry not available)
• Laptop (no internet, no work—disconnect, enjoy)
• Drone (BANNED in Myanmar—military restrictions, confiscation + arrest if caught)
• Valuables/jewelry (nowhere to wear it, risk of loss)
• Heavy books (Kindle holds 1,000+ books, weighs 200g)

Practical Information: Health, Safety & Responsible Tourism

Health Risks & Precautions

• No hospitals in Mergui Archipelago: Nearest medical facility is Kawthaung Hospital (basic, limited equipment) 6-10 hours by boat. Serious diving injuries (DCS, AGE) require recompression chamber—nearest is Phuket, Thailand (12+ hours by boat + road). Medical evacuation extremely expensive (US$50,000-200,000) and insurance likely won\'t cover (conflict zone). Dive conservatively, long safety stops, NO deco diving unless very experienced.
• Malaria & dengue: Low risk but present in Tanintharyi Region. Consider malaria prophylaxis (doxycycline, Malarone) if staying more than 7 days or visiting Moken villages (more mosquitoes on land). Dengue has no prevention except insect repellent—use DEET 30-50%, cover up dawn/dusk (peak mosquito times).
• Seasickness: Even calm season has 6-10 hour boat rides to Burma Banks. Take seasickness meds BEFORE boarding (meclizine 25-50mg, scopolamine patches). Ginger, wristbands, staying on deck/horizon also help. Most people adjust after 1-2 days.
• Dehydration & sun: Equatorial sun + saltwater + multiple dives = severe dehydration risk. Drink 3-4 liters water/day. Use SPF 50+ sunscreen, reapply every 2 hours, wear rash guard/sun hat. Heat exhaustion can end your trip.
• Marine hazards: Lionfish (venomous spines, painful but not deadly—watch where you put hands), stonefish (camouflaged, step on = hospital), sea urchins (wear reef shoes), jellyfish (box jellyfish rare but present Nov-Jan, potentially deadly—if stung, pour vinegar, seek medical help immediately), saltwater crocodiles (VERY rare in Mergui, but reported in mangroves—don\'t swim in murky river mouths).

Safety & Emergency Protocols

• Dive safety: Burma Banks strong currents require advanced skills. Always dive with buddy, carry SMB, surface with 50 bar minimum, avoid deco dives (no chamber within 12 hours). Listen to divemaster briefings—they know the sites, currents, hazards.
• Boat safety: Liveaboards are generally well-maintained, but Myanmar has minimal maritime regulations. Check boat has life jackets (1 per person), fire extinguishers, first aid kit, O2 kit, radio/satellite phone. Ask about emergency evacuation plan.
• Political safety: Avoid discussing Myanmar politics with locals or guide (military monitors conversations, locals can be arrested for \'sedition\' if overheard criticizing junta). Do NOT photograph military installations, naval vessels, or anything that could be considered \'strategic\' (bridges, ports, government buildings). Stick to diving/nature photography.
• Communication: NO mobile signal in Mergui (200+ km from land). Some liveaboards have satellite phone (emergencies only, expensive—US$5-10/min). Inform family you\'ll be offline 7-10 days. Establish check-in plan (email from Kawthaung before/after trip).

Responsible Tourism & Ethics

• Moken interaction: If visiting villages, hire local guide (supports community, ensures respectful interaction). ALWAYS ask permission before photos (especially children). Don\'t give money/candy to kids (creates dependency). Donate to village school fund instead (operators can arrange). Learn basic Burmese phrases ('Mingalaba' = hello, 'Chay zu tin ba deh' = thank you).
• Environmental protection: NO touching coral (kills it, illegal in national park areas). NO taking shells, sand, coral (fines up to US$10,000 + jail). Use reef-safe sunscreen only. No feeding fish (disrupts ecosystem). Don\'t chase/touch marine life (stress, injury). Perfect buoyancy is essential.
• Waste management: Mergui has ZERO waste infrastructure. Liveaboards collect trash, burn/bury on return (bad, but no alternative). Minimize waste: bring reusables (water bottle, bag, utensils), refuse plastic, bring non-biodegradable waste back to Thailand (batteries, plastics, electronics).
• Ethical dilemma—funding the junta: Myanmar tourism fees, permits, and taxes partially fund the military regime responsible for human rights abuses, killings, and the ongoing civil war. Some argue tourism supports local communities (Moken villages, liveaboard crew, Kawthaung businesses, most of whom oppose the junta). Others say any visit legitimizes the regime. There\'s no easy answer. If you choose to visit, consider: (1) Book operators that donate to Moken/local community funds. (2) Tip crew generously (cash goes directly to families, not government). (3) Avoid pro-junta businesses (hard to identify, ask operators). (4) Speak up about Myanmar\'s situation when you return (awareness, advocacy).

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Verdict: Should You Visit Mergui Archipelago in 2025?

The Mergui Archipelago is, without exaggeration, one of the last pristine island frontiers on Earth—800 islands scattered across the Andaman Sea where almost nobody goes, where the Moken sea nomads still live in hand-carved kabang boats (for now), where you can dive with walls of sharks at underwater seamounts unknown to the world until the 1990s, and swim through an underwater cave into a heart-shaped emerald lagoon surrounded by 30-meter limestone cliffs. It\'s the Southeast Asia of 50 years ago, before mass tourism, before development, before the crowds.

But Myanmar\'s February 2021 military coup has shattered that dream. The Tanintharyi Region where Mergui is located is now a restricted area, affected by ongoing civil war, subject to sudden closures, and carrying official \'do not travel\' warnings from every major Western government. Travel is POSSIBLE—some liveaboard operators continue to secure permits, the Kawthaung-Ranong border remains open, and the islands themselves (far offshore) have seen minimal direct conflict. But the risks are very real: permit denials, evacuation difficulties, insurance gaps, arbitrary arrest, and the ethical weight of funding a brutal military regime.

My honest recommendation for 2025:

• If you have low risk tolerance, limited budget, or no experience in conflict zones: DO NOT GO. Visit Similan Islands (Thailand), Surin Islands (Thailand), Andaman Islands (India), or Raja Ampat (Indonesia) instead—all offer 90% of Mergui\'s beauty with ZERO risk.
• If you\'re an experienced adventure traveler comfortable with risk, have US$5,000-10,000 budget (including evacuation funds), can monitor Myanmar conflict daily, and have secured permits 6-8 weeks in advance: You CAN visit, but accept ALL risks (arrest, injury, death, financial loss, ethical complications). This is expedition travel, not a vacation.
• If you want to see the Moken but safely: Visit Moken Morgan Village on Koh Surin, Thailand (day trips from Khao Lak, Nov-Apr, completely safe, no permits). You\'ll see authentic Moken culture without funding Myanmar\'s junta or risking your life.
• If you can wait: WAIT. Myanmar\'s civil war will eventually resolve (2026-2028 realistic, possibly longer). The Mergui Archipelago has been pristine for 70 years; it will still be pristine when Myanmar stabilizes. The Moken culture is tragically declining, but rushing to \'see it before it\'s gone\' while funding the regime accelerating that decline is ethically questionable.

The Mergui Archipelago is paradise. But paradise isn\'t worth dying for, or going to jail for, or supporting a genocidal military regime for. There are safer paradises in the world. Choose wisely.

If Myanmar achieves peace and democracy in the coming years, the Mergui Archipelago will be THE destination for the next decade—pristine reefs, vanishing cultures, unexplored islands, all accessible safely. Until then, the risk far outweighs the reward for 99% of travelers. Be patient. The islands aren\'t going anywhere.